Agra is known as the city of the Taj but the town has its share of heritage beyond the Taj. The left bank of Yamuna river, opposite the Taj, once housed about a dozen Mughal-style gardens complete with pavilions and chhatris. Stretching across the gardens were tree-lined pathways complete with water channels, which in turn were decorated with fountains.
After the first battle of Panipat (1526), Babur established the Mughal rule in India. He was tortured by the hot and dry climate of north India. He missed the swift flowing steams of his homeland. So in order to escape the heat, he constructed several char-bagh (four-quarter) Mughal Gardens in his new capital, Agra. They were similar to the gardens he has seen during his childhood days in Samarkhand. These Mughal Gardens comprised descending terraces with water channels and provided a relief from the surrounding sweltering heat.
William Dalrymple mentions in his book City of Djinns: “Inheriting the Greek love of order and logic, Islamic gardens – like their buildings – are regimented into lines of perfect symmetry…” Today, a handful of these heavenly gardens still stand along with a couple of mausoleums and can be an interesting exploration of Agra beyond the Taj.
Mehtab Bagh
The view of the Taj Mahal from Mehtab Bagh.
Today, Mehtab Bagh, the moon-lit garden, stands bang opposite the Taj Mahal on the other side of the river. It is in perfect alignment with the Taj complex and is often visited by tourists for a great view of the Taj. Legend also says that this was the place for the black Taj Mahal, which was supposed to house the mortal remains of Shah Jahan. But that was not to be.
Moreover, several historians doubt about the plan of the Black Taj. Also, historical facts state that the Mehtab Bagh predates the Taj and the Taj complex was built in alignment with the Mehtab Bagh. The garden was constructed by Babar. Over the decades and centuries, the garden has gone through several modifications. Today, apart from a few chhatris along with the remains of water channels and reservoirs, nothing much is left of the moon-lit garden. It still draws a large crowd for the amazing view of the Taj towering above the banks of Yamuna.
Gyarah Sidi
Sadly, nothing much remains of the Mughal era observatory. The 11 steps stairs still stand and so does a few scattered structures.
This strange site is located on the bank of Yamuna and is just north of Mehtab Bagh. A narrow road bifurcates from the main road and leads to the Gyarah Sidi, passing next to a playground with the Taj towering in the backdrop. Gyarah Sidi, literally meaning 11 steps, is an observatory built by Humayun. Humayun was a believer of astrology and had the observatory constructed to keep track of celestial bodies. Sadly, nothing much remains of the Mughal era observatory. The 11 steps stairs still stand and so does a few scattered structures.
Tomb of Itimad-ud-daulah
Itimud-ud-Daulah and (right) multi-coloured inlay work on the monument.
This amazingly beautiful mausoleum is often referred to as the ‘Baby Taj’, sadly apart from the marble finish, the two structures have hardly any structural similarities. Moreover, the tomb predates the Taj. It was completed a couple of years before the construction of the Taj started. Itimad-ud-Daulah was an important official in the courts of both Akbar and Jahangir. His original name was Mirza Ghiyas Beg. He was awarded with the title ‘Itimad-ud-Daulah’, meaning pillar of the state. But he is more famous in history as the father of Nur Jahan. He died in 1622 and Nur Jahan built the tomb to house his mortal remains.