A feast that would have had Gurudev go Oh! Calcutta

Oh! Calcutta set the tone for Pochishe Baisakh with a special feast. Known for their Bengali cuisine, the chain’s outlet at Forum Mall, Kolkata, raised the bar with a memorable meal that included many of Rabindranath Tagore’s favourites.

Based on the innovative culinary creations of the Tagore family kitchen —Thakurbarir rannaghar — Anjan Chatterjee’s restaurant laid out a two-day food fest over the weekend, on May 6 and 7, as a prelude to celebrating the bard’s birth anniversary. On offer was an array of dishes based on the innovations and experiments that were so much a part of the fabled kitchen of the Tagores.

Debashish Ghosh, general manager brand standards and public relations for the restaurant’s parent organisation Speciality Restaurants, said the culinary fest had been envisioned and presented as a tribute to Rabindranath Tagore on the occasion of his 162nd birth anniversary. “There are many ways that Bengalis all over the world make the bard’s birthday special every year and this happens to be Oh! Calcutta’s offering — a Thakurbari culinary treat seasoned with renditions of Rabindrasangeet and poetry recitation or abritti,” he said.

The specially curated menu for the event was drawn entirely from the Thakurbari kitchen and was thus representative of the many dishes that have been loved and appreciated by one and all, especially Gurudev himself, said Ghosh. Topping the list of favourites was Peyaj Posto, Lichur Payesh, Enchorer Kofta Kebab, Murgir Rosolla and more such items that the Tagore kitchen took pride in creating. “Also new for everyone is the presence of the live band which will be playing Rabindrasangeet and reciting poetry, which is again something that not many establishments would really consider as an accompaniment with a Bengali spread.”

The lunch and dinner menu, priced at Rs 1145, was served on Saturday and Sunday (May 6 and 7) at all the Oh! Calcutta outlets in Kolkata, but the live band played only at the Forum Mall establishment.

On the Tagorean menu

The menu curated for the tribute included many items that were quintessentially Tagorean. Judging by the response of the patrons, who turned out in large numbers despite being perhaps a little ruffled by the vagaries of the season, showed how appreciative everyone was of Oh! Calcutta’s pioneering initiative.

The buffet spread included delicacies such as Doi Bara, Dal Bhaate, Tormujer Salad, Man Kochu Bhaate, Bhutta Koraishutir Tikia, Vegetable Cutlet, Fish Fry, Murgh Seekh Kebab for starters. There was Kosha Alur Dum, Daler Borar Dalna, Alu Peyaj Posto, Biulir Dal, Thakurbarir Chingri Malai Curry, Doodh Morich Katla, Murgir Rosolla, Mangshor Jhol in the main course. The sides with the mains included Enchorer Kofta Pulao, steamed rice and Luchi along with the much-needed crunchy, tangy accompaniments like Bori Bhaja, Doi Shosha, assorted chutneys, papad and pickle. The dessert treats had choices like Lichur Payesh, Aam Sondesh, Pantua, Kheer Kodom and the rather modern Nolen Gurer Ice Cream.

The culinary stars of the Tagore household

Dating back to the days of Dwarkanath Tagore, Rabindranath’s grandfather, the bawarchi khana of the Tagores was as fabled as it was innovative. Over the generations the women of the family matched the innovative and creative strain of the family in their culinary prowess. Here, the name of Gurudev’s wife Mrinalini Devi stands tall as she was known to be a great cook. Her creativity came through with such items as mango rice, chutney made out of gourd, as well as the sweetmeat called goja that Tagore himself had named Elojhelo and then later on as Paribondho. Tagore was also the secretary of Khamkheyali Sobha (also referred to as The Whim’s Club), where after every gathering exotic food was offered to those who attended. He was particularly fond of hilsa and chitol maachh. Moong dal, chingri maachher malai curry and kebabs also were among his most liked dishes as were shukto and mishti paan.

Among the other Tagores who took the culinary experimentation further was Rabindranath’s nephew Abanindranth Tagore . It was under him that the likes of Murgir Maachher Jhol and Maachher Mangsher Curry – items challenging accepted forms of cooking — came to be created. Pragyasundari Devi, daughter of Hemendranath Tagore, is credited with creating what is often referred to as the first Bengali menu card called Kromoni. She also authored the book Amish O Niramish Ahar, published around the early 1900s, which is one of the earliest Bengali food cookbooks. There was also Indira Devi Chaudhurani and Renuka Devi, Rabindranath’s niece and daughter respectively, both of whom authored notable cookbooks that have become collectibles over time.

A feast with a side of music

Oh! Calcutta’s innovations were not limited to the buffet table as patrons had a novel experience with the presence of a live band who played renditions of Rabindrasangeet and also recited poems by Tagore. The members — literature student Sammyobroto Das, who was joined by Sudip Bera and Subhalaxmi — sang a number of carefully chosen songs to highlight Tagore’s visions of nationalism.

The atmosphere in the restaurant was an enviable mix of gourmet Bengali food, soul-touching music and a celebration of Bangaliyana, with pride over a cultural ethos that had been created by Rabindranath Tagore himself.

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